I can’t tell you how many times I have been asked, how do I get my dog to bring me his/her ball and drop it. Many dog owners would play with their doggies more if the doggies didn’t run and around and play keep away, until you just don’t want to try to play with your dog any longer. Or maybe they do bring it back to you but at the same time they are jumping, play biting, guarding or flopping around like a catfish, while you are doing your very best to get the ball so you can just throw it again for them. After about twenty minutes you are exhausted and in the back of your mind you know you have a problem but just not sure how to go about addressing it and make playing with your dog enjoyable and not so painful.

Well, today is your lucky day and when done consistently everyday for thirty to forty five days you and your dog will have a great understanding of how to play ball enjoyably.

Before we begin, remember anytime you are introducing something new to your dog you need your five foot leash and the proper training collar. Now I prefer a five foot leather leash and proper fitting chain collar. When picking out the proper chain collar be sure to get the right size. That is the biggest mistake dog owner make when purchasing a chain or prong collar. Without the properly sized training collar you will not be able to give a proper correction when needed.

What size chain collar do I need? The way you measure is from the outer edge of the eye to the beginning of the ear which is usually around two inches. This is how much slack should be in the collar when it is on the dog and pulled snuggly.

What size prong collar do I need? In all my years this is the biggest mistake dog owners make. Most of the time when you buy a small, medium or large prong collar they have extra links attached to it. The proper amount of links depends on the size of your dog’s neck. The proper amount of links is determined when you put the prong collar on and it fits against the neck all the way around. In most cases that I see the dog’s prong collar fits like a necklace and even if a correction was used it wouldn’t be proper or effective. All links should touch the neck to get a proper size. If there are too many links when a correction is used then the prong collar will not apply pressure correctly to the neck and in the end there really wasn’t a correction given at all.

How do I put the chain collar on my dog properly? A chain collar has a chain with two larger loops at each end. Take a part of the chain and feed it through one of the loops. Now when you hold it up, you should see a capital P. Facing the dog and seeing the capital P, slide the chain collar over the dog’s head and attach your leash. While you are attaching your leash look at the chain collar again, once on the dog you can still see the capital P.

How do I put the prong collar on my dog properly? Once you know how many links you need to fit your dog’s neck properly now it’s time to put it on properly. I always like to attach my leash to the prong collar before I put it on the dog so I am ready for any corrections needed. Hold up the prong collar and go to the middle two links, this is where it is easiest and the least strain on the collar. Pinch the two links together and apart and then put it on your dog and pinch them back together in proper place.

How do I know if I need a chain collar or a prong collar? I mostly use a chain collar in the beginning of training any doggies that we train at our kennel. But my technique is almost flawless and I can do it just like breathing but the new dog owner trying to learn how to train their dog will take practice and patience, and then comes experience. So when you are determining if you need a chain or prong collar here are a few reasons I would recommend;

A small person with a large breed dog would need a prong collar

A toy aggressive dog would need a prong collar

Large breed dog that pull would need a prong collar

A Prong collar helps a person be equalized to the dog’s strength.

When using the prong collar I have found that just in the beginning it is needed and in most cases after just a few days you can switch over to a chain collar.

In most cases a chain collar is the best tool in your dog trainer’s toolbox.

Now it’s time to begin teaching your dog to bring you their ball and drop it so you can throw it again and again. First of all put your collar and leash on your dog. Now you will play close (leash distance) the first few times. That way when the bad behavior is displayed you can immediately correct (pull and release) the dog, say the word NO at the same time. Keep that in mind while you try to start playing ball. Throw the ball just a little bit in front of you and remember if the dog tries to pull your arm off while retrieving the ball then at that time deliver a correction saying the word NO at the same time. Always keep in mind that any time you start something new you practice it two to three times a day for up to twenty minutes at a time. When you are correcting your dog for bad behavior remember to follow with heavy praise when the bad behavior stops. Praise is what your dog is working for so be sure to give lots of it when they deserve it.

Ok, now that you have control of the dog and he is jumping to get the ball close by and not knocking you down, jumping all over you, biting at your feet, legs, hands and whatever else the dog enjoy going after. When the dog picks up the ball at that time ask the dog to bring it here and when he ignores you because you just started him on these workouts. Just pull the dog towards you with lots of verbal motivation. When the dogs gets to you, ask the dog to drop it and when he doesn’t deliver a correction, saying NO at the same time, then repeat drop it. Repeat this several times until the dog drops the ball then follow with lots of praise. Sometimes a dog will still not drop it know matter how many times you correct it and that’s when it can get a little tricky.

After you have corrected your dog several times for not dropping the ball next time you ask and he doesn’t drop it reach into his mouth and take the ball out right after each correction then follow with praise. While doing this exercise be prepared for the dog to continue trying to not drop the ball, just be patient and consistent and do your very best not to throw off a bunch of bad body language around. Just ask calmly and follow through. You have the leash so you can be in control. Remember this rule, anything corrected for consistently will go away and anything praised for consistently will be repeated.

Good Luck,

Tammy Molnar

Dog Behaviorist

If I could I would shout to the world this answer over and over again. Whether you have a dog with behavior problems or not, formally training your dog is the single most important gift you can give them and yourself.

Dogs and puppies are creatures of habit just like us humans. So, anything done consistently over a thirty to forty five day period becomes a habit. Now keep in mind that during that time those habits can turn into good and bad habits. The majority of dog owners don’t call us until their dog’s behavior issues are causing unwanted stress on their family and everyday life. I can’t tell you how many times people have called and after our spill about our programs, they will say, “I don’t care about the commands, I just want my dogs to stop fighting.” Well, sorry it just doesn’t work out that way and let me explain why.

When it comes to changing a dog’s behavior it all starts with teaching them obedience. Think of it like raising a child, parents don’t wait until a child begins kindergarten before they start teaching them obedience. I remember at a very young age learning the difference between right and wrong and what the consequences were for bad behavior and how to obtain praise. Another way to look at it is when a dog has serious aggression it is usually either euthanized or caged and isolated from others. And humans are the same way and you can see that through our over crowded prisons. Now keep in mind just like prisoners need rehabilitation so do dogs and with the proper professional, rehabilitations are successful and manageable. Make sense?

Whether you have a puppy or and adult dog, obedience can start at any given day you just have to commit to it. It takes teaching a canine obedience commands to be able to address behavior correctly. So if you have a puppy that barks and wines all the time and you have tried yelling, screaming, hitting them with a newspaper, squirting them with a spray bottle and throwing things at them, then you are not giving that dog a reason to stop. My suggestion would be to attach a leash and collar on the dog and each time the dog barks give a correction and say no at the same time. Remember a correction is a pull and release of the leash. A correction is a negative so remember to add the word no at the same time. Now continue this until the barking stops and at that time you need to give the dog lots of praise but be ready for the barking to begin again very soon. Here’s the tricky part and where the obedience commands level out training your dog. See just like with kids you can’t just go around correcting them all the time without them learning how to earn praise. Dogs are the same way so once you decide to commit to the thirty to forty five days of training now it is time to teach your dog what’s the difference between good and bad behavior and how to obtain more praise than correction. So I recommend addressing bad behavior with correction followed by praise and at least two times a day working with your dog on teaching them heel, sit, down, come and the place command. All of the proper instructions are on previous post on this website. Take it slow and feel free to ask me any questions you might have along the way.

Just one more thing before you begin, when you start training your dog try to always keep things level just like a teeter totter. On the dog training teeter totter we have praise, motivation and correction, if any of those are used incorrectly or with negative body and verbal language then the teeter totter is thrown of balance. Whether you are using praise, motivation or correction be careful not to over use any of them if you are not getting the results you desire.

Lastly I would like to close with a great statement my husband Jim uses; “Anything praised for will be repeated and anything corrected for will go away. Now keep in mind that it will take all of your tools to make this statement happen.

Tammy Molnar

Dog behaviorist

Have the dog in a stationary position (sit, down, place). 

First begin with small distraction, example: bouncing a ball, clapping your hands. If the dog gets up, calmly gather your leash and correct the dog with the word “NO, NO, NO” and back to where they were, then say “NO” and the command in the position they were in from start.

If the dog keeps getting up correct them a little harder or if they are overwhelmed with the amount of distraction then lower the distraction.

When the dog is able to stay in position, increase you distraction to working with other dogs. Holding position outside and working with other people. Work on all the commands the dog knows in this heavy distraction.

Once the dog is consistently working well with distraction and has mastered the on-leash training then it is time to start working with a long line. A long line is a thin leash anywhere from 20 to 50 feet long. Now start working your dog from a distance and in many different areas.

This command comes very easily because the dog wants to come to you. Put dog in a sit or down and then do walking away get in front of the dog and face him. With your left hand take your arm out and scoop it in towards your chest saying the word come. Motivate the dog to come to you; patting your legs or bending down slightly when the dog begins to approach you says good boy/girl. As the dog approaches you make your loop and when he gets right in front of you, give him a small correction and say “NO” sit. Usually the dog will learn this in just one work out. Go back into a heel, down from the side or anything the dog has learned so far.

It is very important to mix the commands up when doing a workout. You do not want to program the dog; you want keep the dog focused and eager for your next command

This command involves a flat matt. Put it in the middle of the room or outside where you are working. While in a heel go over the matt a few times, so you can desensitizes the dog to the matt. Some dogs will not want to even touch the matt. So you will need to use a lot of body language. When he walks over it, praise him. Now you are ready to introduce the place command. From a heel position walk towards the matt, when you and the dog are on top of the matt, point with your right pointing finger towards the matt. At the same time take your left hand and put it in a “down from the side” hand signal. Stop briefly, the dog does not know what place means, but when he looks up and sees the “down from the side” hand signal, he knows to lie down.

If he does, great, praise him and go back into a heel position. If the dog doesn’t lie down on the matt, then deliver a “down from the side” correction saying “NO” down. If the dog gets off the matt then correct him back to the matt saying “NO” down. You are using the “down from the side” hand signal to teach the dog to place. After just 1 or 2 workouts you can drop your left hand back down at your side and just point towards the place and he will lie down. You will need to do 3 to 4 workouts before you move on to distance to the place.

Distance to the Place:

Have the dog in a heel position and stop about one foot from the mat, say “place” if the dog doesn’t walk to the place correct him/her. “No”, place and make them lay on it, then praise profusely. Stay at this distance until the dog will walk to the “place” by their selves. Then increase you distance in sections.

The dog will need to be in a sit position at your left side. Just like you were going to be going to a heel position say the word down and at the same time give the hand signal. The hand signal is using your left hand make an L, with your palm facing the ground, and standing up straight. If the dog lies down praise him, good down. Most dogs won’t know what this means. So after you give the dog the verbal and hand signal for down. Take all slack out of leash and reach down and place the dog into a down position, using both hands.

How each dog gets put down can vary. Most cases you can use both hands (still holding leash) and reach down and lift his paws up and sliding them down. Use your left knee to put a very small amount of pressure on his back. Praise him and say good down, and then make sure your leash isn’t wrapped up in his feet.

 Now you are ready to go back into a heel, with motivation. When he gets back into a heel position be sure to praise him. Praise can be verbal or physical depending on the age, size and personality. Teaching down can be the most difficult of commands. Down is a very submissive position for a dog. It makes him feel small or challenged. Your approach would be much different with a fear biter or an aggressive personality more so than with a puppy or happy go lucky personality. After 5 to 6 workouts it is time to see if the dog knows it yet.

 There are 3 tools in this command.

Correction:

Before you give the dog the down command, make sure all of your slack is out of your leash, even lifting the buckle up slightly. Now, you are ready to give the down command. Make sure you are on his right side and he is in a sit position. After giving the down command, take your left hand and grab the leash making a fist right next to your right hand which is holding the leash. Your left hand should never be on the leash unless you are giving a correction. Bend over slightly, hands together and deliver a correction hands should be together correcting in a 1 clock horizontal direction (pull and release). Saying the word, “NO” at the same time you give the correction. The size of the correction will vary from age, size and personality of the dog. This will take practice. After giving the correction, give the command down.

Motivation:

Using your body slightly squat down, giving a correction using movement only. Just pretending you were going to give a correction, saying “NO” down. If he tries or lowers his head, squat down slightly, like your trying to help him, saying that’s it, that’s it. Almost like your trying to talk him into it.

Putting dog into the down:

This is done by following the above procedures as you are motivating and then praise good down with verbal and physical praise. Then back into a heel.

¨     The three of these combined into a workout will depend again on age, size and personality.

¨     With practice most of the time you can have the dog doing the Down from the Side in that workout.

Attach leash to training collar (which ever applies). Check to make sure the collar is on properly. Put your right thumb in the open handle at the end of the leash. Then take your left hand and ride it down the leash towards the dog about 12 inches depending on the height of the dog. Take that part of the leash and lay the leash over your right thumb. Close you’re your hand and remove your left hand from touching the leash. Your left hand will only touch the leash while giving a correction or adjusting the loop held in your right hand. The left hand should hang down comfortably by your side. This is the position you will take while working on commands and behavior modification.

Delivering a proper correction:

A correction is a quick pull and release with the leash. Most important is to say “NO” at the same time. Delivering a correct correction takes practice. Be patient you will learn this during your 3 week course of training. If the leash is tight between you and the dog it can be difficult to deliver a correction properly. Stop and change the direction of where you were walking, leave a bit of slack in the leash. Then deliver a correction, saying the word “NO”. The size of the correction varies from size, age and personality. Sometimes a large adult dog will take a smaller correction than a small puppy. Take this entire thing in consideration when picking the right correction for the dog you are working with.

Heel:

Make loop (as shown above) ask the dog to heel and give hand signal at the same time. Hand signal is with your left hand by facing your palm forward and moving forward about six inches. The position you want to keep the dog is on your left side measuring from the seam of your pant leg, six inches from the front of the seam and then six inches from the back of the seam on your pant leg. The dog has twelve inches in which the dog should keep their head. The dog will not know what this means, so now we will show him/her. After giving the hand and verbal command begin walking the dog, even when the dog learns to walk on your left side, the human has to initialize the walk. The dog will not start walking on his/her own. At this point keep the dog on your left side, when he is not, deliver a correction and say the word “NO”, followed by heel.

When the dog is trying to cut you off or go a different direction, change directions and deliver a correction saying “NO”, then give the dog motivation by patting your left side with your left hand to show him where you want him. Continue changing directions until the dog gets where you want him. Every time the dog gets in the right position praise him and tell him he is a good dog.

I kind of thought J.D. would go before Travis or Laurie just because of his overall training approach towards Galaxy. I don’t think the judges took him as abusive but with too much force full body language. I could see it all over J.D.’s face when the judge spoke to him sternly that he was using everything he had to not go over and smack her one. But he was a smart man and held his self together long enough to get out of there. I did notice when they brought in all of the previous housemates, J.D. was still looking shocked from his banishing.

I would like to say that I would have much better enjoyed a challenge than a few question that would determine who would be eliminated. Maybe it was more focused on the owner of the possible Greatest American Dog that needed to also be up for par for the task.

That was a great course for the dogs to have to do to determine the winner. Before the last challenge I could see when the judge started talking to Laurie about Andrew’s separation anxiety that her chances of wining were going down. I don’t think it is really anything against Laurie and the judges weren’t judging her as a person just as Andrew as a possible Greatest American Dog.

Presley did really AWSOME and so did Travis the way he helped and guided him through the scary parts. Which I think really showed how much Travis has learned over the last several weeks. Andrew did well too but like one of the judges mentioned Laurie was too clingy and was using too much hands and was trying to reason with Andrew instead of just letting him try to do it on his own. I think in the end Andrew’s separation anxiety is what made Presley the winner.

I believe having Travis and Presley win will encourage others that are so called newlyweds (by Laurie) to pursue such a relationship with their dogs.